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POLE/SETUP
INSTRUCTIONS FOR
WEDGE TENTS
The
following is an explanation of what we do when we build a pole system for
one of our wedge tents. The reason we use the interior pole system is
twofold. One; it is easier to transport and erect a tent with this
configuration and two; we could find no original documentation for exterior
pole systems in evidence until the mid-19th century. We realize there are
folks using the exterior pole system at rendezvous but that does not make
it authentic. We think you will be pleasantly surprised at how easy these
tents are erected and how strong they are in a good windstorm.
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What you will need for LUMBER:
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TENT
STYLE
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L x
W x H
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VERTICALS
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RIDGEPOLE
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French
1750
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8’
x 8’6” x 7’ & 4’ Bell
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2 -
2"x2"x8'
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1 -
2"x4"x10'
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French
1751
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7’
x 7’ x 6’6” & 3’6” Bell
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2 -
2"x2"x8'
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1 -
2"x3"x8'
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British
Infantry
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6’
x 7’ x 6’ & 1’3” Bell
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2 -
2"x2"x8'
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1 -
2"x3"x8'
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British
Dragoon
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6’
x 7’ x 6’ & 2’9” Bell
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2 -
2"x2"x8'
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1 -
2"x3"x8'
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British
Cavalry
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7’
x 7’ x 6’ & 2’ Bell
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2 -
2"x2"x8'
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1 -
2"x3"x8'
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American
Rev.
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7’
x 7’ x 6’ & 3’6” Bell
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2 -
2"x2"x8'
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1 -
2"x3"x8'
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British
Rev.
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6’6”
x 6’6” x 5’
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2 -
2"x2"x8'
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1 -
2"x3"x8'
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German
1770s
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6’6”
x 8’9” x 6’
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2 -
2"x2"x8'
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1 -
2"x3"x8'
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1850
Thoreau
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6’
x 7’6” x 5’
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2 -
2"x2"x8'
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1 -
2"x3"x8'
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English
1640
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6’
x 7’6” x 5’
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2 -
2"x2"x8'
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1 -
2"x3"x8'
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Hudson
Bay Co.
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6’
x 7’ x 6’
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2 -
2"x2"x8'
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1 -
2"x3"x8'
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1780
American
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6’6”
x 6’6” x 6’6” & 2’ Bell
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2 -
2"x2"x8'
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1 -
2"x3"x8'
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1810
British
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6’6”
x 7’ x 6’
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2 -
2"x2"x8'
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1 -
2"x3"x8'
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1753
"Trooper"
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7’
x 9’ x 6’
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2 -
2"x2"x8'
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1 -
2"x3"x8'
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1753
Quartermaster
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7’
x 9’ x 6’6”
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2 -
2"x2"x8'
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1 -
2"x3"x8'
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1753
Subaltern
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8’
x 9’ x 6’6”
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2 -
2"x2"x8'
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1 -
2"x4"x10'
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1780
Loyalist
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7’
x 7’ x 7’
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2 -
2"x2"x8'
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1 -
2"x3"x8'
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1781
Cont. Army
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7’
x 7’ x 7’
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2 -
2"x2"x8'
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1 -
2"x3"x8'
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1812
US
Army
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8’5”
x 6’9” x 7’
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2 -
2"x2"x8'
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1 -
2"x4"x10'
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1812
Boston
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6’5”
x 6’11” x 5’10”
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2 -
2"x2"x8'
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1 -
2"x3"x8'
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American
Civil War
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6'
x 6' x 6'
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2 -
2"x2"x8'
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1 -
2"x3"x8'
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American
Civil War
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6'
x 8'6" x 6'
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2 -
2"x2"x8'
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1 -
2"x4"x10'
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American
Civil War
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8'
x 8'6" x 7'
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2 -
2"x2"x8'
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1 -
2"x4"x10'
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Sutler
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8’6”
x 6’ x 5’
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2 -
2"x2"x8'
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1 -
2"x4"x10'
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Sutler
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8’6”
x 8’6”x 7’
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2 -
2"x2"x8'
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1 -
2"x4"x10'
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WOOD: For ridge poles we use regular
old spruce 2x4s or 2x3s (see above chart for your specific tent) that we
spend a little extra time picking out. Look for the few in the pile that
are the straightest with the fewest knots. Use the dimensions filled in
below to mark and cut your stock to length. Next set a table saw to cut the
chamfer on the top two edges or, better still, use a router or shaper to
configure the poles to this softer edge shape. If you have grommets in your
tent you will want to look below to see what your “set back”
is. Use this measurement to measure back from the bitter ends to the center
of the hole in your ridge pole. (If you do not have grommets measure 1
½”) Drill the two holes using a 9/16” bit. Sand and
paint.
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Shape of a 2x3 Ridgepole
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Shape of a 2x4 Ridgepole
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Sleeves: Shortening your
ridge pole is best done with a sleeve. The sleeves we supply are made to be
placed over your pole with very little, if any, stock removal. After
cutting your ridge into two pieces place a mark 7 ½” from the
cut end. Slide the sleeve over the cut end until it lines up with the mark.
Drill a hole and place a nail or small screw into the sleeve to lock it
place.
Upright poles are a bit more work
unless you can find 2x2s. 2x2s are actually 1 ½” x 1
½”, perfect for most wedges. We use Douglas Fir but it took a
great deal of time to locate a source. If you can’t find acceptable
2x2 stock you will have to use 2x4s. You will need one 2x4. Set your table
saw to the thickness of the 2x4 (1½”) and rip your 2x4 twice.
This will yield boards that have a final dimension of 1½” x
1½”. We like the looks of a chamfered edge. First cut the
vertical poles to the measured height of your tent minus the height of your
ridge pole. Leave both ends in the square for about eight inches and use a
router or shaper to chamfer the edges in between. Drill a 3/8” hole
roughly 3” deep into the end of each upright pole. Cut two 3/8”
steel pins 9” (for a tent with grommets) or 5 ½” (for a
tent without grommets). Radius the ends of the pins and place in the
drilled holes. Sand and paint.
YOU CAN ESTIMATE THE DIMENSIONS OF YOUR
POLES FROM THE CHART ABOVE. For example, your French 1750 wedge, which is
8' long, will have a ridgepole that is approximately 8' long (give or take
an inch or two). The overall height of the tent is 7'. To find the height
of your upright poles, we first need to subtract the thickness of the
ridgepole. From the chart, we can see that a 1750 uses a 2x4 for a
ridgepole, which actually measures 1 1/2" x 3 1/2". By
subtracting 3 1/2" from 7', we know that our upright poles will
measure approximately 6'9" (again, give or take a an inch or two).
Grommet setback should be 1 1/2" (give or take a 1/4" or so).
BECAUSE EACH
TENT IS UNIQUE, DO NOT cut your poles to final dimensions before you
receive your tent.
Leave an extra couple of inches on your uprights and ridgepole, until we
can give you precise final dimensions. DO NOT
drill your ridgepole for the hole placement for your upright pins.
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STAKES
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TENT STYLE
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L x W x H
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STAKES
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French 1750
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8’ x
8’6” x 7’ & 4’ Bell
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16
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French 1751
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7’ x 7’
x 6’6” & 3’6” Bell
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16
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British Infantry
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6’ x 7’
x 6’ & 1’3” Bell
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13
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British Dragoon
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6’ x 7’
x 6’ & 2’9” Bell
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17
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British Cavalry
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7’ x 7’
x 6’ & 2’ Bell
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15
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American Rev.
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7’ x 7’
x 6’ & 3’6” Bell
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14
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British Rev.
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6’6” x
6’6” x 5’
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14
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German 1770s
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6’6” x
8’9” x 6’
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16
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1850 Thoreau
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6’ x
7’6” x 5’
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14
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English 1640
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6’ x
7’6” x 5’
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14
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Hudson Bay Co.
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6’ x 7’
x 6’
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14
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1780 American
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6’6” x
6’6” x 6’6” & 2’ Bell
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14
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1810 British
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6’6” x
7’ x 6’
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14
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1753
"Trooper"
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7’ x 9’
x 6’
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16
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1753 Quartermaster
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7’ x 9’
x 6’6”
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16
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1753 Subaltern
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8’ x 9’
x 6’6”
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14
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1780 Loyalist
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7’ x 7’
x 7’
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14
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1781 Cont. Army
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7’ x 7’
x 7’
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14
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1812 US Army
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8’5” x
6’9” x 7’
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14
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1812 Boston
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6’5” x
6’11” x 5’10”
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14
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American Civil War
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6' x 6' x 6'
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14
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American Civil War
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6' x 8'6" x 6'
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14
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American Civil War
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8' x 8'6" x 7'
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14
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Sutler
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8’6” x
6’ x 5’
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14
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Sutler
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8’6” x
8’6”x 7’
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14
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SETUP: To set up your tent, lay the
canvas in location you want the standing tent. Locate the reinforcements on
the front door. You will find one stake loop at the bottom center of each
reinforcement. Stake the two reinforcements with one stake. Using large
stakes, if you have them do the following; pull the left front corner of
the tent square and stake. Pull the front right corner square and stake.
Stake the right rear corner making sure the right side it tight, straight
and makes a right angle at the front right corner. Stake the left rear
corner making sure the left side is tight, straight and makes a right angle
at the front left corner. Put the ridgepole inside the tent. Put the rear
vertical pole in place within the tent, and into the ridgepole. Put the
front vertical pole in the tent and into the ridgepole. Place the ridge
pole into the ridge of the tent making sure, if you have grommets, to place
the pins through the grommets. Now walk both vertical poles into position
at the same time with two people (or alternate if working alone) until the
vertical poles are vertical. Step back to make sure everything is square
and snug. If you have a belled end pull the center seam/ stake loop (or
stake loops on the center panel) out fully and stake. Finish pulling and
staking the bell seams to shape the bell. Finish staking the body stake
loops. Your tent canvas should be smartly tight, not baggy and wrinkled. If
it is not tight, fix it! You are not trying to stress the fabric, the
object is to get the fabric tight enough to shed water and wind quickly.
PAINTING: It is necessary to seal the
wood. We use paint. From the information that can be found, paint is the
most appropriate finish. Any flat, or semi-gloss paint will do, but look
for one with old colors. There are a number of companies that sell colonial
color paints. Stulb
Old Village
paint is a favorite of ours. Their oil paints are incredibly tough.
When taking down and packing up your
tent remember to remove as much vegetation and dirt from the canvas as
possible.
It
is always best to lay your tent out when you arrive home to ensure every
part is dry before long term storage.
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