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POLE/SETUP
INSTRUCTIONS FOR
WEDGE TENTS
The
following is an explanation of what we do when we build a pole system for
one of our wedge tents. The reason we use the interior pole system is
twofold. One; it is easier to transport and erect a tent with this
configuration and two; we could find no original documentation for exterior
pole systems in evidence until the mid-19th century. We realize there are
folks using the exterior pole system at rendezvous but that does not make
it authentic. We think you will be pleasantly surprised at how easy these
tents are erected and how strong they are in a good windstorm.
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TENT
STYLE
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VERTICALS
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RIDGEPOLE
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STAKES
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American Civil War
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10' x 11' x 8'
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2 - 3"x3"x8'
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1 - 4"x4"x12'
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14
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Factory Tent 1830
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9' x 14' x 8'
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2 - 3"x3"x8'
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1 - 4"x4"x16'
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14
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Museum Wedge
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10' x 11'3" x
8'
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plus
a 5' Bell
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2 - 3"x3"x8'
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1 - 4"x4"x12'
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18
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Museum Wedge Plus
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10' x 14' x 8'
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plus
a 5' Bell
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2 - 3"x3"x8'
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1 - 4"x4"x16'
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20
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Medieval Double Bells:
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10' x 15'6" x
8'
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inc.
2 - 5' Bells
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2 - 3"x3"x8'
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1 - 4"x4"x6'
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18
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10' x 18'6" x
8'
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inc.
2 - 5' Bells
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2 - 3"x3"x8'
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1 - 4"x4"x10'
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20
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10' x 21' x 10'
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inc.
2 - 5' Bells
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2 - 3"x3"x8'
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1 - 4"x4"x12'
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22
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10' x 20'6" x
10'
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inc.
2 - 6' Bells
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2 - 3"x3"x10'
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1 - 4"x4"x10'
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22
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12' x 23' x 10'
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inc.
2 - 6' Bells
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2 - 3"x3"x10'
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1 - 4"x4"x12'
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24
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12' x 26' x 10'
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inc.
2 - 6' Bells
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2 - 3"x3"x10'
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1 - 4"x4"x16'
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26
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15' x 27' x 10'
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inc.
2 - 8' Bells
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2 - 3"x3"x10'
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1 - 4"x4"x12'
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26
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15' x 30' x 10'
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inc.
2 - 8' Bells
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2 - 3"x3"x10'
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1 - 4"x4"x16'
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28
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Sutler Wedges:
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10' x 11'3" x
8'
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2 - 3"x3"x8'
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1 - 4"x4"x12'
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16
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10' x 14' x 8'
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2 - 3"x3"x8'
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1 - 4"x4"x16'
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18
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14' x 14' x 9'
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2 - 3"x3"x8'
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1 - 4"x4"x16'
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22
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French Double Belled Wedge:
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12'
x 20'6" x 10'
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inc.
2 - 6' Bells
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2 - 3"x3"x8'
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1 - 4"x4"x10'
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26
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This tent also needs 4-
6'6" 2x2s and 80' of rope.
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The following is an explanation of
what we do when we build a pole system for one of our wedge tents. The
reason we use the interior pole system is twofold. One; it is easier to
transport and erect a tent with this configuration and two; we could find
no original documentation for exterior pole systems in evidence until the
mid-19th century. We realize there are folks using the exterior pole system
at rendezvous but that does not make it authentic. We think you will be
pleasantly surprised at how easy these tents are erected and how strong
they are in a windstorm.
WOOD: We use Douglas Fir 4x4s or 3x3s
that we spend a little extra time picking out. Look for the few in the pile
that are the straightest with the fewest knots. We like the look of the
large dimension lumber. It is possible to use 2x4s if you do not have
access to Douglas Fir or do not want to spend the extra money.
Rip your lumber to 2 5/8” x 2
5/8” for the two uprights and 2 5/8” x 2 7/8” for the
ridgepole. Plane the surface to finish at 2 ½” x 2
½” and 2 ½” x 2 ¾“. Set your joiner
fence at 45 degrees and drop the feed table to allow the joiner to remove
enough stock to make the uprights octagonal after four passes. Stop. Read
on before you place anything on your joiner table.
UPRIGHT POLES. Determine whether you
want full octagon uprights or the fancier look of poles left in the square
at the bottom. For octagonal poles pass each edge of your upright poles
across the table. For the fancier version with a “stop”, mark
where you would like the “stop” to be or use the edge of the
fence on the joiner table, stopping the pass when the end of the pole stock
reaches the near end of the fence. If you are planning on using sleeves on
your poles cut the poles to the desired lengths first. This allows you to
pass the poles across the table leaving the very top and bottom of the pole
in the square. Drill a ½” hole into the center top of the pole
six inches deep.
Cut a ½” steel pin
12” long if your tent has grommets in the peaks or 8 ½”
with no grommets. Touch up the ends with a file to remove any burrs that
may cut you or your tent fabric. Place one pin in the top of each pole.
RIDGEPOLE. Pass your ridgepole stock
across the joiner table removing the top two edges only. (Please see the
ridgepole end drawing below) Using the dimensions filled in below mark and
cut your pole to length. Measure back from the ends and mark for drilling
your pin holes using the “set back” dimensions given. Drill a
½” diameter hole completely through the stock.
SLEEVES: Shortening any pole is best
done with a sleeve. The sleeves we supply are made to be placed over your
pole with very little, if any, stock removal. After cutting your pole into
two pieces place a mark 6” for uprights (or 7 ½” for
ridgepole) from the cut end. If your stock is too large to fit the sleeve,
remove a small amount using the joiner. Slide the sleeve over the cut end
until it lines up with the mark. Drill a hole and place a nail or small
screw into the sleeve to lock it in place.
DOOR POLES. Standard 2x2s work for
door poles. You can make a quick set by cutting to length and drilling a
3/8” hole for a steel pin. The pin should protrude 3” from the
end. You may want to leave the ends in the square for a few inches and
remove the remainder by passing a router along the edges making the pole
lighter and more “finished”.
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Shape of an Upright Pole
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Shape of a milled 4x4 Ridge Pole
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YOU CAN ESTIMATE THE DIMENSIONS OF YOUR
POLES FROM THE CHART ABOVE. For example, your American Civil War, which is
11' long, will have a ridgepole that is approximately 11' long (give or
take an inch or two). With belled tents, subtract the radius of two bells
from the overall length. For example, a 10' x 21' x 10' Medieval Double
Bell with 2 5' bells, has a ridge of 11' (5x2=10, 21-10=11). The overall
height of the tent is 8'. To find the height of your upright poles, we
first need to subtract the thickness of the ridgepole. From the chart, we can
see that this Civil War tent uses a 4x4 for a ridgepole, which actually
finishes 21/2" x 2 3/4". By subtracting 2 3/4" from 8', we
know that our upright poles will measure approximately 7' 9 1/4"
(again, give or take a an inch or two). Grommet setback should be 1
1/2" (give or take a 1/4" or so).
BECAUSE EACH
TENT IS UNIQUE, DO NOT cut your poles to final dimensions before you
receive your tent.
Leave an extra couple of inches on your uprights and ridgepole, until we
can give you precise final dimensions. DO NOT
drill your ridgepole for the holeplacement for your upright pins.
SETUP: To set up your tent, lay the
canvas in location you want the standing tent. Locate the reinforcements on
the front door. You will find one stake loop at the bottom center of each
reinforcement. Stake the two reinforcements with one stake. Using large
stakes, if you have them do the following; pull the left front corner of
the tent square and stake. Pull the front right corner square and stake.
Stake the right rear corner making sure the right side it tight, straight
and makes a right angle at the front right corner. Stake the left rear
corner making sure the left side is tight, straight and makes a right angle
at the front left corner. Put the ridgepole inside the tent. Put the rear
vertical pole in place within the tent, and into the ridgepole. Put the
front vertical pole in the tent and into the ridgepole. Place the ridge
pole into the ridge of the tent making sure, if you have grommets, to place
the pins through the grommets. Now walk both vertical poles into position
at the same time with two people (or alternate if working alone) until the
vertical poles are vertical. Step back to make sure everything is square
and snug. If you have a belled end pull the center seam/ stake loop (or
stake loops on the center panel) out fully and stake. Finish pulling and
staking the bell seams to shape the bell. Finish staking the body stake
loops. Your tent canvas should be smartly tight, not baggy and wrinkled. If
it is not tight, fix it! You are not trying to stress the fabric, the
object is to get the fabric tight enough to shed water and wind quickly.
PAINTING: It is necessary to seal the
wood. We use paint. From the information that can be found, paint is the
most appropriate finish. Any flat, or semi-gloss paint will do, but look
for one with old colors. There are a number of companies that sell colonial
color paints. Stulb
Old Village
paint is a favorite of ours. Their oil paints are incredibly tough.
When taking down and packing up your
tent remember to remove as much vegetation and dirt from the canvas as
possible.
It
is always best to lay your tent out when you arrive home to ensure every
part is dry before long term storage.
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