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POLE/SETUP
INSTRUCTIONS FOR
WALL TENTS
The
following is an explanation of what we do when we build a pole system for
our wall tents. The reason we use the interior pole system is twofold. One,
it is easier to transport and erect a tent with this configuration and,
two, we could find no original documentation for exterior pole systems in
evidence until the mid-19th century. We realize there are folks using the
exterior pole system at rendezvous but that does not make it authentic. We
think you will be pleasantly surprised at how easy these tents are erected
and how strong they are in a good windstorm. You will find two sets of
instructions following, one set for the smaller wall tents with ridges
seven feet tall and shorter, the second set for anything wider, longer or
taller.
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What you will need for LUMBER:
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Height
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Wall
Height
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Ridgepole
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Uprights
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Perimeters
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8'6"
x 14'
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7'
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3'
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1 - 3"x3"x15'
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2 - 3"x3"x8'
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12 - 2"x2"x3'2"
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8'6"
x 14'
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7'
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4'
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1 - 3"x3"x15'
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2 - 3"x3"x8'
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12 - 2"x2"x4'2"
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8'6"
x 14'
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8'
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4'
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1 - 3"x3"x15'
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2 - 3"x3"x8'
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12 - 2"x2"x4'2"
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11'3"
x 11'3"
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8'
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3'
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1 - 3"x3"x12'
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2 - 3"x3"x8'
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10 - 2"x2"x3'2"
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11'3"
x 11'3"
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8'
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4'
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1 - 3"x3"x12'
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2 - 3"x3"x8'
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10 - 2"x2"x4'2"
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11'3"
x 11'3"
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8'
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5'
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1 - 3"x3"x12'
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2 - 3"x3"x8'
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10 - 2"x2"x5'2"
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11'3"
x 11'3"
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9'
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5'
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1 - 3"x3"x12'
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2 - 3"x3"x9'
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10 - 2"x2"x5'2"
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11'3"
x 14'
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8'
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4'
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1 - 3"x3"x15'
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2 - 3"x3"x8'
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12 - 2"x2"x4'2"
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11'3"
x 14'
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8'
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5'
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1 - 3"x3"x15'
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2 - 3"x3"x8'
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12 - 2"x2"x5'2"
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11'3"
x 14'
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9'
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5'
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1 - 3"x3"x15'
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2 - 3"x3"x9'
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12 - 2"x2"x5'2"
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11'3"
x 16'10"
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8'
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4'
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1 - 3"x3"x18'
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2 - 3"x3"x8'
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14 - 2"x2"x4'2"
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11'3"
x 16'10"
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8'
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5'
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1 - 3"x3"x18'
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2 - 3"x3"x8'
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14 - 2"x2"x5'2"
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11'3"
x 16'10"
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9'
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5'
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1 - 3"x3"x18'
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2 - 3"x3"x9'
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14 - 2"x2"x5'2"
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11'3"
x 19'8"
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8'
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4'
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1 - 3"x3"x20'
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2 - 3"x3"x8'
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16 - 2"x2"x4'2"
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11'3"
x 19'8"
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8'
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5'
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1 - 3"x3"x20'
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2 - 3"x3"x8'
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16 - 2"x2"x5'2"
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11'3"
x 19'8"
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9'
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5'
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1 - 3"x3"x20'
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2 - 3"x3"x9'
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16 - 2"x2"x5'2"
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LARGER WALL TENTS
WOOD: We use Douglas Fir 4x4s or 3x3s that
we spend a little extra time picking out. We like the look of the large
dimension lumber in the bigger tents. It is possible to use 2x4s if you do
not have access to Douglas Fir or do not want to spend the extra money.
Rip your lumber to 2 5/8” x 2 5/8”
for the uprights and 2 5/8” x 2 7/8” for the ridgepole. Plane
the surface to finish at 2 ½” x 2 ½” and 2
½” x 2 ¾“. Set your joiner fence at 45 degrees
and drop the feed table to allow the joiner to remove enough stock to make
the uprights octagonal after four passes. Stop. Read on before you place
anything on your joiner table.
UPRIGHT POLES: Determine whether you
want full octagon uprights or the fancier look of poles left in the square
at the bottom. For octagonal poles pass each edge of your upright poles
across the table. For the fancier version with a “stop”, mark
where you would like the “stop” to be or use the edge of the
fence on the joiner table, stopping the pass when the end of the pole stock
reaches the near end of the fence. If you are planning on using sleeves on
your poles cut the poles to the desired lengths first. This allows you to
pass the poles across the table leaving the very top and bottom of the pole
in the square.
Drill a ½” hole into the
center top of the pole six inches deep. Cut a ½” steel pin
12” long if your tent has grommets in the peaks or 8 ½”
with no grommets. Touch up the ends with a file to remove any burrs that
may cut you or your tent fabric. Place one pin in the top of each pole.
RIDGEPOLE: Pass your ridgepole stock
across the joiner table removing the top two edges only. (Please see the
ridgepole end drawing below) Using the dimensions filled in below mark and
cut your pole to length. Measure back from the ends and mark for drilling
your pin holes using the “set back” dimensions given. Drill a
9/16” diameter hole completely through the stock.
SLEEVES: Shortening any pole is best
done with a sleeve. The sleeves we supply are made to be placed over your
pole with very little, if any, stock removal. After cutting your pole into
two pieces place a mark 6” for uprights (or 7 ½” for
ridgepole) from the cut end. If your stock is too large to fit the sleeve,
remove a small amount using the joiner. Slide the sleeve over the cut end
until it lines up with the mark. Drill a hole and place a nail or small
screw into the sleeve to lock it in place on one pole.
WALL POLES: Use standard 2x2s for wall
poles. You can make a quick set by cutting stock to length and drilling a
3/8” hole for a steel pin. The pin should protrude 3” from the
end. You may want to leave the ends in the square for a few inches and
remove the remainder by passing a router along the edges making the pole
lighter and more “finished”.
PAINTING: It is necessary to seal the
wood. We use paint. From the information that can be found, paint is the
most appropriate finish. Any flat, or semi-gloss paint will do, but look
for one with old colors. There are a number of companies that sell colonial
color paints. Stulb
Old Village
paint is a favorite of ours. Their oil paints are incredibly tough.
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Shape of an Upright Pole
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Shape of a milled 4x4 Ridge Pole
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YOU CAN ESTIMATE THE DIMENSIONS OF YOUR
POLES FROM THE CHART ABOVE. For example, your 11'3" x 11'3" wall
tent with a 9' peak and 5' walls, will have a ridgepole that is
approfimately 11'3" (give or take an inch or two). The overall height
of the tent is 9'. To find the height of your upright poles, we first need
to subtract the thickness of the ridgepole. We can see that this tent uses
a milled 4x4 for a ridgepole, which should finish at 21/2" x 2
3/4". By subtracting 2 3/4" from 9', we know that our upright
poles will measure approximately 8' 9 1/4" (again, give or take a an
inch or two). Grommet setback should be 1 1/2" (give or take a
1/4" or so).
BECAUSE EACH
TENT IS UNIQUE, DO NOT cut your poles to final dimensions before you
receive your tent.
Leave an extra couple of inches on your uprights and ridgepole, until we
can give you precise final dimensions. DO NOT
drill your ridgepole for the holeplacement for your upright pins.
You will also need:
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8'6" x 14'
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STAKES: 18 Small, 12 Large
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DOGBONES: 12
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11'3" x 11'3"
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STAKES: 16 Small, 10 Large
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DOGBONES: 10
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11'3" x 14'
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STAKES: 18 Small, 12 Large
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DOGBONES: 12
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11'3" x 16'10"
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STAKES: 20 Small, 14 Large
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DOGBONES: 14
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11'3" x 19'8"
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STAKES: 22 Small, 16 Large
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DOGBONES: 16
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What you will need for ROPE:
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Height
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Wall
Height
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8'6" x 14'
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7'
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3'
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12 sections @ 6',
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8'6" x 14'
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7'
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4'
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w/poles: 12 sections @ 7'
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8'6" x 14'
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8'
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4'
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w/poles: 12 sections @ 7'
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11'3" x 11'3"
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8'
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3'
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w/poles: 10 sections @ 6'
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11'3" x 11'3"
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8'
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4'
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w/poles: 10 sections @ 8’
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11'3" x 11'3"
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8'
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5'
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w/poles: 10 sections @ 9'
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11'3" x 11'3"
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9'
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5'
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w/poles: 10 sections @ 9'
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11'3" x 14'
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8'
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4'
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w/poles: 12 sections @ 8'
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11'3" x 14'
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8'
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5'
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w/poles: 12 sections @ 9’
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11'3" x 14'
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9'
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5'
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w/poles: 12 sections @ 9'
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11'3" x 16'10"
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8'
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4'
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w/poles: 14 sections @ 8'
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11'3" x 16'10"
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8'
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5'
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w/poles: 14 sections @ 9'
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11'3" x 16'10"
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9'
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5'
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w/poles: 14 sections @ 9'
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11'3" x 19'8"
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8'
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4'
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w/poles: 16 sections @ 8'
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11'3" x 19'8"
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8'
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5'
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w/poles: 16 sections @ 9'
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11'3" x 19'8"
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9'
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5'
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w/poles: 16 sections @ 9'
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SETTING UP YOUR WALL TENT
To set up your tent, lay the canvas in the location you want the standing tent.
Locate the reinforcements on the front door. You will find one stake loop
at the bottom center of each reinforcement. Stake the two reinforcements
with one stake. Using large stakes, if you have them, do the following;
pull the left front corner of the tent square and stake it. Pull the front
right corner square and stake. Stake the right rear corner making sure the
right side is tight, straight and makes a right angle at the front right
corner. Stake the left rear corner making sure the left side is tight,
straight and makes a right angle at the front left corner. If you do not
have a rear door the wall will help to hold everything tight. If you do
have a rear door, check to make sure a stake can be driven through the two
rear door reinforcement stake loops. Do not place a stake in this position
at this time.
Slide the ridgepole under the canvas,
inside the tent. Put the rear vertical pole into the ridgepole. Put the
front vertical pole into the ridgepole. Place the ridgepole into the ridge
of the tent making sure, if you have grommets, to place the pins through
the grommets. Now walk both vertical poles into position at the same time
with two people (or alternate if working alone) until the vertical poles
are vertical. Step back to make sure everything is square and snug. If it
is not remove and restake to make the base square at this time.
If you are using wall poles, place a
wall pole in place in one of the guyline loops near the center of the tent
wall. Place a guyline over the protruding pin and, pulling from the tent at
a ninety-degree angle, stake the guyline using a large stake. Repeat this
on the opposite side of the tent. Place a pole in one or the front corner
guyline loops. Place a guyline on the pin and pull away from the tent both
to the side and front. Stake using a large stake. Repeat on the remaining
three corners. Place the remainder of the poles and guylines in position
and stake. Using small stakes, stake the bottom of the tent walls. Your
tent canvas should be tight, not baggy and wrinkled. If it is not tight,
fix it! You are not trying to stress the fabric, the object is to get the
fabric tight enough to shed water and wind quickly.
If you are not using wall poles the
operation above is completed using the guylines secured to the guyline
loops.
When taking down and packing up your
tent remember to remove as much vegetation and dirt from the canvas as
possible.
It
is always best to lay your tent out when you arrive home to ensure every
part is dry before long term storage.
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